- Tumbleweed Bicycle Company 3853 N Garden Center Way, Boise Idaho 83703 Daniel@Tumbleweed.cc (510) 985-9858.
- Only by really building and using, one can demonstrate the effective use green energy in a sustainable environment. The two-fold use of the solar powered eBike charging station makes it an excellent milestone in the road towards a sustainable world.
- Energy is the ability to do work. In the case of a bicycle coasting down a hill, the force that is doing work on your bike is gravity. Gravity itself is not a form of energy; however, gravity combined with the height of the hill and the total mass of you and your bike creates potential energy.
Renewable energy exercise bike
hi every one
here I am back with a new project
as Mary is a keep fit freak and is turning our conservatory into a gym
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with treadmill and weight machine I thought I would make use of that energy that she's just wasting and turn it into power
after all that's what Renewable energyis all about
recycling it so its not wasted :)
I have seen exercise bikes on the Internet using dc motors running off the bike tire
which is noisy and and creates friction tiring you out more quickly
so I decided to design one of my own on my cad.
Cad drawings are here to download at the bottom of the page for more detailed but you will need a cad or DWG viewer to see them
parts needed are:
old bike
magnets
copper wire
40 mm box steel (1-1/2' )
2 steel plates 480 mm 4mm thick
fiberglass resign
fiberglass matting
cable
nuts and bolts
the 2 plates I used was 2 old saw blades but they are very hard to cut and cannot be drilled
I had to use a plasma cutter to do all the work on them.
Here is the cad layout of the coils not a clear pic but you can just make it out.
The first thing to do is make the coils I used 14 AWG (1.60mm) copper wire Polyester 200 Dual Coat
Temperature Class - 212 Degrees Celsius
52 turns per coil this was the max size of the coil I could fit in the size of the stator
the center of the coil is the same size of the magnets I am using to max the magnetic field to the center of the coil
as this is a 12volt unit 52 turns will be plenty but if you need to make a 24volt the min of
72 turns will be needed or 48 volt 144 turns
but thinner wire can be used as the amps will be lower for the same watts output
watts are watts no matter what the volts are
its the amps that get bigger on lower volts that's why you need thicker wire for 12volts
eg: 12v divided by 100watts = 8.33amps
24v divided by 100watts =4.16 amps
as you see the amps have halved
as I am going to wire this into the 12v wind turbine system I already have I am staying with 12v
I will need 18 coils for the 3 phase stator
6 coils on each phase
there you are 18 coils
this took 1 night to wind watching TV :)
I made a winding former to make them all the same size
now the coils are made
the cast for the stator is to be made
3 sheets of mdf or ply can be used 30'inch square
mark out the center of each board
to draw out the circles I used a aluminum rule and drilled holes in it
at the size I needed to make it perfectly round.
On one sheet of board draw 2 circles 580mm and 280mm
cut out the 580mm hole first
this board is the center board of the mold place it on top of one of the other boards and screw it down
now cut out the the 280mm out of the part you just cut out of the part above
this is the center part of the mold put it in the center and screw it down
the coils will fit in like above 20 degree's apart
in this pic you will see 2 more lines !
these mark where the coils fit 512mm and 329mm .
the last board will fit on top after the cast has been pored
before casting paint the mold first to stop it being porous and the wax it to stop the cast sticking to the mold.
Now your mold is ready
lay in the coils as above
before casting the coils need to be connected to each other
cut the ends of the coils to length and burn off the coating with a blow torch
and sand it after cooling as above.
It is important that the center of one coil connects the the next outside coil
on every third coil as there are 3 phases do one phase at a time that's every third coil
solder the 2 ends together like above
remember the outside of the coil must connect to the center of the next coil in that phase
insulate the joint using electrical tape or heat shrink
when all the connection have been made you will have 6 ends left
3 ends for the start of each phase A B C
and 3 for the end of each phase D E F
it will be a good thing to mark them to help you later
lay the ends outside the mold
now it is ready for casting
cut out 2 circles of fiberglass matting to fit inside the cast
one under the coils mix the resign and pore over the coils
place the second matting over the top pore a little more resign over the matting
now screw down the top of the mold tight
and let it dry.
Sorry had no pic of this as it needs to be done quickly
no one to do pic (Mary was in farmville ) lol
now the magnet rotors
here is the cad pic of the rotor
here are the 2 saws I used
I use saws because as they run true better that plate
but they are very hard to cut.
I did all the work on the saws with a plasma cutter
cuts like a hot knife through butter :)
here's one I did earlier :)
cutting a 36mm hole out the middle for the spindle to fit in
the spindle is the center from the back wheel of the bike
after removing the rim and spokes.
On the opposite side from the sprocket (cog) where the spokes fit
will have to be removed so it will fit through the hole in the plate.
The other side of the spindle sprocket side this welded to the plate
as above
mark out were the magnets will fit
I printed out a part of the cad drawing at 1:1
and use it as a template the magnets are 15 degree's
here are the magnets all 100 of them
size 25mm x50mm 3mm thick (1' x 2' 1/8 thick)
on each plate there are 24 magnets
so I will need 48 magnets doubled up to make a 6mm thick magnet stronger magnet
now I can hear you asking what not buy a 6 mm magnet?
these was on offer :)
they worked out cheaper :)
this is a magnet pole finder
very handy to have
stick the magnets on with super glue
with the poles north south north south and so on
be very careful with strong magnets
this one flew out my hand and shattered
good job I go a spare
here they are all stuck on
now you can see the spindle on the other side as well
here is the second rotor all fin
after bonding it in the same way as the stator
to help keep the magnets in place
both rotors need bonding
here is the rotor overlay over the stator
to show how the magnets react with the coils
over 5 degree's rotation the magnet is over the next phases coil
now the rotors are done
to the stand for the bike
here is the stand after fabricating the parts
out of 40mm thin wall box steel
here is the stand slotted together
the arch is were the stator and rotor fits
here it is after a coat of paint
now to put it all together
putting in the rotor and stator
after fitting the stator housing the bike frame
the bike frame was a little shabby so I spoofed it up with green spray paint :)
now for the connections
the 6 wires coming out of the stator
need to be trimmed and cleaned bear
drill a hole next the each wire that comes out of the stator
as above
the three wires that was marked up as A B C
are the ones that will be connected to the control panel
as above
the other 3 will be wired together
as above
they will need to be covered before uses
as it is possible to produce high AC voltage
crimping the ends on the 6mm cable
here is my spaghetti box lol :)
this is my homemade bridge reflector 30AMP
the blue yellow and red wire are the ones that come from the stator AC power.
The 2 connection at the bottom are the DC power output
here is the cad layout of the bridge reflector
also a homemade 1 amp 12 volt regulator
for powering the 2 digital volt and amp meter
and cooling fan
here is the panel closed up and mounted on the front of the bike
a amp meter on the left volt meter on the right
a cooling fan in the middle
1amp fuse for the power regulator
30amp fuse for the main power cable
here I am giving it a test run
I hit 21AMPs peek
didn't last long at that speed lol
I averaged at 7- 8amps
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at normal biking speed
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after a coat of paint it's all finished
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here are the cad drawings to down load